Paris Fashion Week Update

As we bid farewell to PFW today, and indeed the conclusion of an exciting month of fashion, iFashion takes a look at the highlights over the past few days.

The highly anticipated Stella McCartney show ran at the early 9am slot on Monday. As usual, her uncomplicated and readily wearable collection impressed the audience. Colours were crisp and fresh, interjected with shocking cobalt blues, dots of all sizes and paisley prints. Soon, lace panelling appeared alongside mesh, calling for a fresh new take on chic city wear. Whilst not as openly sexy as her A/W collection, the strong feminine silhouette was still dressed in a fun, flirty and confident manner. The subtle intermix of prints that featured in the three piece suits, were especially triumphant.

Following the appointment of Clare Waight Keller at the helm of Chloe, people seemed unsure of what to expect from the latest offering. The new collection was modest to say the least, yet did not disappoint the crowd of harsh critics. Playing with soft, flowing fabrics, Keller reminded us of the true Chloe aesthetic. Dresses with green, coral and dusty pink pleats fell into drop waist skirts and palazzo pants moved dreamily down the catwalk. Moments of brilliance occurred when the models wore collarless blouses under sheer chiffon dresses and we especially loved the crisp shirts embroidered with large orchids. In conclusion, it was a relatively cautious introduction, yet nonetheless pleasing.

Karl Lagerfeld never disappoints and the new Chanel collection captured a certain magic and fantasy that has to be seen in the flesh to be fully appreciated. Florence Welch sung live throughout as the models walked in yet another sumptuous sea-inspired collection. Classic Chanel tweed suits were pearlised and embellished with shimmering applique. Bulbous skirted dresses caught the light like glittering sea foam and ruffles fell effortlessly from the waists of others. Later, large netting with sparkling pearls intertwined was laid over bold floral dresses. No detail was spared in Lagerfeld’s sea scape; including the shell shaped clutch bags that will surely be next season’s hottest accessory.

No fashion house quite does romance like Valentino and with Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli at the helm, a romantic yet modern collection was on the cards. Dresses of all lengths were covered in delicate doily lace detailing; in black, whites and blush pinks. Buttery leather also featured mesh and lace cut-outs-without losing the softness. A turn at minimalism came when models walked in strapless dresses in whites, reds and baby pinks before later developments introduced flower printed silk. Sheer dresses had spattering of lace applique before entire dresses were covered in lacework. Finally, ball gowns of black chiffon and lace, embroidered so richly in hydrangeas, took our breath away. Forget Christmas, it is a springtime romance in Valentino we are most looking forward to.

Sarah Burton triumphed yet again with the McQueen S/S 2012 collection. Never straying too far from McQueen trademarks, Sarah added her own light and feminine touch. As expected, the lace, corsetry and tailoring all sung true to McQueen yet there was a freedom and weightlessness that her predecessor, had sometimes missed. A show that was awe inspiring in every respect and equally hard to put into words, Burton has mastered her new role and created a fitting tribute for her late boss.

The show started with suits that had stiff silhouettes and multiple peplums before softening into tassels that had been dipped in gold. The unyielding silhouettes then gave way to full dresses made from bunches of gathered chiffon evocative of ostrich feathers before the garments tapered again into a more streamline forms. Fitted lace dresses were then covered in pressed black leather, like bats smothering the model. Black leather was a predominant fabric for a few dresses, before the final outfits gave a nod to the aquatic aesthetic with fishtail trains in shimmering ruffles of pearl, gold and silver.

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