Couture Fashion Week 2012

Updated 27/1
Jean Paul Gaultier and Valentino brought Couture Fashion Week to a glamorous close yesterday, with two very different, yet equally inspired collections.

Gaultier offered the highest tribute to the late Amy Winehouse, sending his models clattering down the runway in towering beehives, sky-high wedges and retro make-up. The vintage-inspired looks were classic Amy, think tight cropped tops and bodices teemed with form-fitting pencil skirts. Veils of varying lengths and colours were pinned atop of the models’ gravity-defying hair and the use of intricate lacework and sequins really made some looks pop. Karlie Kloss walking in a voluminous emerald green ball gown, complete with contrasting ginger hair was our favourite look; embodying the true spirit of JPG couture.

Valentino pulled the curtains down on the week with another romantic and stunning collection. Couture really is what Valentino does best and the creative direction of Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri is to be applauded. Dresses were created from the most delicate of silks, woven with intricate patterns that added to the beauty without weighing the garments down. Chiffon dresses were printed with ditzy florals and looked so light and breezy you could imagine frolicking around a meadow in the summer wearing them. Light, white jackets were worn over blouses that had tulle and lace collars peeping out from underneath. Later, blouses with stiff high-necks were adorned with sparkling embellishments and tucked into silky high-waisted trousers; giving the ensembles a refreshing feel.

Elegant and classic with unexpected modern twists, the Valentino SS12 couture offering is the sort of thing you would wear to a wedding…and quite possibly outshine the bride in. Simply stunning.

Updated 26/1
Armani Privé drew another hectic day on the couture calendar to a close. A decidedly reptilian motif ran throughout the show; shades of cold greys, green and earthy browns were common. Highlights were the slinky, shimmering gowns paired with sharp shouldered evening jackets or the voluminous ball gowns in darkly theatrical shades; sort of an anti-Cinderella dress. Other pieces could be instantly wearable, especially the chic, sharp-shouldered blazers that were paired with everything from ankle grazer skinny pants to pencil skirts.

Wednesday opened with the couture presentation that iFashion perhaps looks forward to most each year, Givenchy. Still lusting after many of last year’s SS offerings, we wondered what Riccardo Tisci could possibly offer up this year to equal, if not better. His SS12 collection embodies the ’20s and ’30s with a heavy art deco influence. The presentation was held in a basketball court, creating an unquestionably darker atmosphere than last year’s. The floor length gowns were artfully embroidered in black, white, cream and bronze. Crystals and delicate fringing sealed the couture feel. Perhaps most interesting, was the use of facial decorations, coming down from the septum and partly obscuring the model’s lips. Dramatic to say the least.

Updated 25/1
The first day of couture week came to an impressive end when Giambattista Valli proved his couture worth after his debut in only July last year. The AW11 showing was only supposed to be temporary, but the Paris Fédération Française de la Couture were so impressed they awarded the designer with the couture appellation. Typically, designers are only given the official appellation after they have showcased couture collections for five years. Proving that receiving the most prestigious honour early was well deserved; Valli’s SS12 offering was simply breath-taking. Romantic chiffon ball gowns, bold monochromatic floral applique, glittering sequin maxi dresses and white pencil skirts ran at the core of this praise-worthy collection.

The second day was perhaps the most highly-anticipated, due to speculation about what magical production Karl Lagerfeld would orchestrate this time around. While his RTW collection was influenced by the sea, the SS12 couture offering was all up in the air; hosted from an Air Chanel jumbo jet. The gangway was wider than your average plane but the illuminated seats and transparent roof revealing fake clouds above certainly created a great atmosphere. Trolley Dollies helped the ‘passengers’ board the ride of a lifetime, to the most sought after destination; Spring/Summer 2012.

The production continued through to the very end. The immaculate ‘air hostesses’ strutted down the gangway initially in daytime looks; simplistic shapes and traditional Chanel boucle two-pieces. The sensible daywear looks later gave way to more sensual evening pieces. Nearing the ‘destination,’ the sky dimmed and embroidered cocktail dresses embellished with sequins and cut out shoulder detailing gave the simplistic silhouettes something to shout about.

Updated 24/1
The return of Couture Fashion Week for SS12 has made us even more impatient for some warmer weather so we can indulge in the new trends. Kicking off couture season, Versace held the first haute couture show. Models Karlie Kloss and Arizona Muse were among the cream of the model crop to work the label’s signature sexy silhouettes down the runway. Cameron Diaz and Diane Kruger turned up to see the first Versace couture offering since 2004.

The setting was elaborate, a huge golden staircase which the models stepped down to present the 15 strong collection of evening looks. Elongated, fitted and corseted; the typical femme fatal Versace silhouette was mastered in every one of the beautiful gowns that started in shades of greys and ended in lime greens and fiery oranges. The highlight was a range of beautiful transparent dresses; heavily embellished with glittering crystals and revealing big ’50s style knicker shorts underneath. An extremely wearable collection from Donatella; whose models were kept pale and interesting rather than working the usual Versace look of bronzed goddesses.

Much like Versace, Dior’s collection also had a decidedly ready-to-wear feel. Influenced by the ‘Mad Men’ era of the 1950s, the collection, perhaps moving away from the ‘wear once’ feel of couture during tough economic times, instead could work well in any wardrobe. Certainly a very different vision to John Galliano’s fantasies, Bill Gaytten eschewed grandeur for understated and timeless sensibility in the SS12 offering.

Day dresses, waisted pencil skirts and classic dogtooth checks dominated; as well as the emergence once again of ’50s knicker shorts. The final few pieces became more spectacular, as huge ballgowns made their way down the runway. Cinched in at the waist, or sprinkled with crystals the evening dresses were a subtle nod to the Galliano days, albeit in a much tamer manner.

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